One
hour drive (42 km) from Jaipur, the village of Samode is on a former caravan
route and although not strictly in the Shekhavati region it is well worth the
short detour. The village with its local artisans producing printed cloth and
glass bangles, nestles within its old walls in the dry rugged hills of the northern
Aravallis. The old havelis and their paintings are still full of character;
at the head of the enclosed valley is the remarkable Samode Palace now converted
into a hotel. The palace is fabulously decorated with 300 year' old fine Shekhavati
style wall paintings (hunting scenes, floral motifs etc.) which still look almost
new. Around the first floor of the Durbar Hall are magnificent kiosks, decorated
like shish mahals. From here you look down through jail screens, as the royal
ladies would have done, into the grand Durbar Hall itself with its huge chandelier
suspended from four large rings in the ceiling.
On a hill
immediately above the palace is Samode Fort, the Maharajah's former
residence, reached in times of trouble by an underground passage. The old
stone zig-zag path has been replaced by 300 steps which you climb to see the
fort. Though dilapidated, there are excellent views from the ramparts; a
caretaker has the keys. The main fort gate is the starting point of some
enticing walks into. the Aravallis. 3 km from Samode, en-route to the main
Jaipur-Agra road is Samode Bagh, a large formal garden which is being
restored (often used as a film set).
The Samode Palace is one of
India's most charming heritage hotels. It offers a quiet, elegant and
luxurious atmosphere combined with modern comforts like air-conditioning and
now even a swimming pool.
HOW TO GET
THERE:
By Road: Samode is well connected to
Delhi, 220 kms and Jaipur, 45 kms.
By Air: Jaipur,
45 kms away is the nearest airport.
By Rail: The nearest mainline station Jaipur, 45 kms away, is well connected
to
Delhi,
Jodhpur
and other cities in Rajasthan.
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India Travel Hotel.
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